From ‘Lax’ ‘Enforcement’ of ‘Liver Law’ to ‘Liver Libre’ in Chicago
The Wall Street Journal had a great feature on the death of Chicago’s foie gras ban–and the rebirth of culinary liberté du choix–over the weekend.
Repeal is turning into a spur to creativity for Chicago’s many ambitious kitchens. New foie gras dishes are on the menu or in the works at a dozen top eateries, most unashamedly at Moto, the molecular gastronomic laboratory of chef Homaro Cantu. He told local media he intended to offer foie gras in the shape of a duck with a force-feeding tube coming out of its mouth. A spokesman for the restaurant said he could “neither confirm nor deny” such a concoction was in the works.
Get it before it’s locked forever in subscriber hell. The piece pairs nicely with a fascinating little foie gras history that labels Watertown, Wisc. the one-time hub of foie gras in America.
My 2007 piece on Chicago’s ban here.
Thanks to Jackson for the tip.
Shochu Finding Way Into the Mix
Shochu, a Japanese distilled spirit, has been gaining in popularity in Japan over the last several years–to the point where it’s eclipsed its undistilled competitor, sake. Makes sense that it’s now becoming more common the in U.S. Here’s a good primer, from the Nation’s Restaurant News:
“Shochu mixes like vodka, gin and tequila,” said Wallack, who ticked off shochu mojitos, shochu Bloody Marys and shochu mimosas as a few of the cocktail ideas. “It also goes well with purees, muddled fruits and just a splash of simple syrup or soda. It mixes great with just about anything.”
It is made from a variety of starches, including barley, wheat, rice, sweet potato and sugar cane, fermented and distilled into a clear spirit that Westerners liken to vodka. There are big differences, however. Shochu is less potent — usually around 25 percent alcohol, versus 40 percent alcohol for vodka — and it retains more of the flavor of the raw materials than ultra-refined vodkas.
Proponents look to the shochu craze in Japan for encouragement. Since 2004 shochu has outsold sake in that country. “More and more people there are drinking shochu instead of sake,” said Monica Samuels, sake ambassador for Southern Wine & Spirits in New York City and former corporate sake sommelier for Sushi Samba, a Japanese-Brazilian-Peruvian restaurant chain based there. “It lends itself better to the nightlife scene.”
But only in recent years, Samuels pointed out, have the Japanese considered shochu respectable, let alone trendy, thanks to the rise of boutique-grade shochus. Traditionally, shochu has been the drink of the poor.
The Chicago neighborhood where I used to live is now home to the hip Shochu restaurant.
Japan’s Shigechiyo Izumi, who lived to be 120 years old, once attributed his longevity to a “daily cup of shochu.” A cup (or even a few) is no doubt good, though quickly downing a couple of bottles will kill ya.
So here’s to shochu. Drink up. More than a cup but less than two bottles.
Chicago’s Foie Gras Ban is Dead!
Minutes ago, Chicago’s dreaded, idiotic foie gras ban died a deservedly graceless death, reports the Chicago Tribune.
With Mayor Richard Daley running the vote, the Chicago City Council on Wednesday repealed its controversial ban on foie gras.
Over the shouted objections of Ald. Joe Moore (49th), the ban’s sponsor, the council used a parliamentary manuever to put the ordinance on the floor for a vote.
On to California!
Congratulations to all who worked to overturn the ban, and especially to Didier Durand and Chicago Chefs for Choice. This is truly a great day for liberté du choix.
Crispy on foie here. Read my 2007 profile of Chicago Chefs for Choice and Durand here.
Chicago Baseball Stadiums Move Beyond ‘Puny’ Footlong
As we already knew, and as Wednesday’s Top Chef served once more to remind us, Chicago sports fans can eat. As if the Fridge asked for manna, and heaven rained it down, both of the area’s Major League Baseball teams are now serving two-foot-long sandwiches:
At Wrigley Field, a two-foot-long Italian beef feeds two to four people and costs $18. Fans can find it at the Italian Hot Spot concession stand in the left field concourse.
Not to be outdone, U.S. Cellular Field is touting its $14 Doubleheader Dog, a 24-inch hot dog, as the first of its kind in the major leagues. It’s sold in the club level Southside Grill.
[...]
Also new at Wrigley this season:
• Tallgrass Beef hamburgers. The beef, named for Chicago broadcaster and rancher Bill Kurtis’ company, is from grass-fed cattle and all the rage among eco-conscious restaurants. The burgers are part of the Chef’s Harvest Table buffet in the Stadium Club.
• “Throwback” menu. Available in the suites, the menu offers comfort foods such as meatloaf with mashed potatoes, fried chicken and watermelon slices.
Get the lowdown on pretty much every ballpark in America, foodwise and otherwise, here.
More from Crispy on baseball food here.
